Monday, 16 December 2024

BushNAS!

2004

Finally getting around to sorting a centralised NAS… in the cheapest way possible! An old Bush-branded tablet running Windows 10 connected to a 2TB drive in an external case. Gotta start somewhere.

In the interests of future-proofing, I'm working on moving all my machines to IoT for its super-longterm support.

The Big Box is done, as is one of the T410s. Hit a snag when trying it on the Bush tablet as it's 32-bit only, so had to make a new installation disk with an older version of Enterprise that is 32-bit. Hopefully I can convert it to IoT with the amazing [redacted] script program.

Using Driverpack solutions 16 to install some drivers, especially the WiFi. Frozen completely part way through this process, so did a hard reset.

Back in Windows, tried activation script without internet, just out of interest; no dice. 

So Windows 10 Enterprise LTSC is activated, but because I had to install the older 32-bit version, the method on the [redacted] website to convert to IoT doesn't work, so no IoT for me. Oh well, LTSC is still better than the old Education version I was using.

Just for posterity, to convert LTSC onto IoT in future (e.g. after changing language), these are the keys:

Windows 10:

[redacted]

Windows 11:

[redacted]

Haven't tried Driverpack solutions again; it got me as far as having WiFi & Bluetooth so now I'm just going to trust to Windows update to install drivers. It would be weird if the touchscreen suddenly worked after all this; it never worked in windows 10 before.

Should I try installing Windows 11 on it…? Is there a 32-bit version?

(A few moments later.)

No, there is no 32-bit version of Windows 11, so the 2019 version of 32-bit Win10 LTSC with support until 2027 is the absolute latest version that will run on this Bush tablet. After that… Well, I just better get saving up for a proper NAS in the next three years!

Sunday, 24 November 2024

New mini PC; selling-off old computers; Win11 taskbar & updating

2012

I was weak, and bought another mini PC… I nearly bought a different one, but in the end went for an identical model to the last one, for cross-compatibility & familiarity. It’s called a Trigkey Green G4 and offers a crazy amount of processing power for around £160.

It’s all part of, bizarrely, actually simplifying my computing life. I’ve sold four out of five Raspberry Pis, the WacMacWiniMini is gone, as is a crappy old Acer Aspire One, and three more old laptops are for sale on eBay, though noöne seems to be buying those. I’ll just lower the prices until they go. Getting all those machines ready for sale was a saga in itself, but not one I documented here, as there was A LOT. The only useful thing I remember was when trying to get into the BIOS on the HP laptop, I needed to have an external keyboard plugged in to press the key to get BIOS or boot menu. That’s by design, for some reason, which is just zarking stupid.

ANYWAY

The point of this mini PC is to have its guts removed and those guts placed into an also-gutted original Playstation chassis to be used as a retrogames emulator.. This was a project I started more than a decade ago; it was to be a Sonyberry Pistation (a name I was very proud of coining at the time) with a Raspberry Pi in the Playstation case. Having resolved to not faff around with Pis or Linux anymore, I’m just going to use a Windows PC. It will be far easier.

Well, it should be easier…

Windows 11 has a lot of annoying features which will have to be worked-around, or gotten used to, just like when I made the migration to Windows 10; it was painful, but I dealt with it.

One annoyance with Windows 11 is that older versions didn’t allow for Taskbar icons to remain uncombined and to show labels; this ‘feature’ (which should be default) didn’t appear until later versions when people, rightly, complained about it.

Well, these mini PCs come with an older version of Win11 (21H2) which DOESN’T have the taskbar options, so Windows needs updating to the latest version. I remember this happening on the first Trigkey I bought, months back, and posted on Reddit about it at the time, where people told me to update (even though Windows claimed it was up-to-date):

https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsHelp/comments/1fgvz9y/missing_taskbar_behaviors_are_driving_me_mad/

I must have got it to work then (didn’t I…?) but this little PC just kept claiming it was up-to-date when it blatantly sodding wasn’t.

Back to Reddit.

I followed a link in one of the replies to Microsoft’s Windows 11 installation page:

https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/software-download/windows11/

Which seems like a dumbass way to go about getting updates.

Anyway, I went with the first option: download the Installation Assistant, cos I couldn’t be bothered to download the media and make a bootable USB. So lazy.

I began the procedure, and it ERRRRED with Error 0x8007007f. Back to Reddit? Yup:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Windows11/comments/q1jisz/anyone_else_seeing_error_0x8007007f_when_trying/

It seems the consensus on a solution is to run the Assistant as admin, which shouldn’t be necessary, but hey, this is still easier than Linux!

IN OTHER NEWS

I’m rethinking the striped drive I made on the old massive box computer; I think I’ll unstripe it and just spread the backed-up data across the drives manually. It seems if something goes wrong with just one of the striped drives, all data is lost across all of them because they’re all in one volume: one dead disk = a whole dead volume.

Stupid sign-in options: something on this page worked:

https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/answers/questions/1359312/hpw-to-log-in-without-pin-or-password-in-windows-1


Monday, 18 November 2024

Windows 10 until 2032; fiddling with Windows 11

1551

Downsizing: that’s what’s going on. I have far too many devices, many of them decrepit, so it’s time to get rid.

Some of what I've been doing is trying to do is stay on WIndows 10. I'm not sure of the legitimacy of the techniques for this upon which I've stumbled, but the links & videos aren't taken down, so how illegal can it be...? If you're interested, look for a video by ArronGAMEZ entitled How To Stay On Windows 10 Until 2032. Not the capitalisation I would have chosen, but the method seems sound.

In other news:

Windows 11 context menu made good:

https://captivateteacher.com/articles/windows10-context-menu-windows11

Windows 11 for normal PCs:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Piracy/comments/1czhpg6/comment/l5hkice/

Mini PC Windows 11 reïnstall:

https://www.reddit.com/r/MiniPCs/comments/1bwln7l/problem_malware_in_a_nipogi_chinese_minipc_which/

Some settings for Windows 11:

https://www.davidleonard.london/2024/02/09/lets-finish-setting-up-your-device/

Saturday, 16 November 2024

Mac Mini / Whack Winnie: installing Windows on a Mac. Also: Duckstation Playstation funtimes

1608

The reason for disabling automatic updates, as detailed in the previous entry, is to do with installing Windows 10 on a mid-2010 Mac Mini (+ Windows = WhackWinnie), which is a process I’ve gone through AT LEAST four times now. Windows 10 installs fine, but upon updating and restart, there’s no display output. My workaround was initially to disable ALL updates, as above, but I paid more attention on one of the installs and noticed it seemed (logically) that it was when the Nvidia driver updater that the system Belgiumed-out.

So, another install later: I allowed updates, but then went into Devices and disabled the Nvidia driver. The display seems fine using whatever driver Windows uses when that is disabled, and the system works fine upon restarting. All other updates install fine.

Someone else seems to have suffered the same issues:

https://www.tonymacx86.com/threads/win-10-on-mac-mini-mid-2010-blank-screen-installing-vga-driver-if-use-gpt-format.328962/

I’ve come across this “Bootcamp” thing, which seems to be some Apple affair for dual-booting. I ignored it all and utterly wiped any trace of Apple off the harddrive, for better or worse, wisely or wrongly. The only tricky thing has been when trying to access the boot menu: this seems to require a wired USB keyboard, and holding Alt upon power-on.

Windows seems to be running ok, though there’s no way of getting sound out of the machine; not via HDMI or the headphone jack. That’s a setback.

We’ll come back to the WhackWhinnie a little later on (if I remember…)

1830

Duckstation:

https://www.reddit.com/r/EmulationOnPC/comments/p8ph2z/duckstation_not_opening_sdl_or_qt_file_because/

PS3 wireless controllers:

https://www.reddit.com/r/PS3/comments/nwi796/how_to_dual_shock_3_on_windows_10_wirelessly_and/

Duskstation has been a great success! Honestly, it’s been a surprising success considering how, as usually detailed here, nothing really works…

I’ve been able to install it on my regular Win10 PC (no Linux or Whack Whinnie nonsense going on) and jumped through A LOT of hoops to get controllers working. Unintuitively, wired controllers (OG PS controllers connected via USB adaptors) have been a bit of a flop, especially for two-player, but wireless PS3 controllers connected via USB (and A LOT of ancillary programs) have worked GREAT and even worked for two-player!

I’ve had a truly joyous time playing Nuclear Strike (there are various aspects of the game controls which gel with my mind, somehow) and Crash Bandicoot was a big hit. I want to have another go at playing through the Oddworld games, and see if the James Bond games live up to Goldeneye…

ANYWAY…

Here’s some of the previous crap I put myself through when trying to get the MacMini to work:

Next time: Retropie, MacMinux, DuckStation on WhackWhinnie

Friday, 15 November 2024

PS3 Controller & Automatic Updates

1159

https://ds3-tool.en.softonic.com/ fail

https://www.reddit.com/r/PS3/comments/nwi796/how_to_dual_shock_3_on_windows_10_wirelessly_and/

ALTHOUGH! The following link is dead:

https://vigem.org/projects/DsHidMini/DS4-Mode-User-Guide/   

A brief aside about automatic updates:

https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/how-do-i-permanently-disable-automatic-windows-10/82e1e076-8dff-475e-8c5e-a2061d1a4c5a

“I understand you had problems with Windows updates, sorry about that.

Updates are released with improvements, security fixes or news, so it is always recommended to keep your computer up to date.

In this case as you want to pause the updates once and for all, follow the procedures below.

1. Press Windows+R, type services.msc and click OK;

2. Scroll down the page to find the Windows Update service;

3. Right-click on the service and select Properties;

4. Click the stop button;

5. In Startup Type change to disabled and click OK;

6. Restart your computer. “

How helpful of them.

Wednesday, 13 November 2024

MBR/GPT nonsense, PiNAS pondering, LINKDUMP

1053

https://www.sevenforums.com/installation-setup/321097-how-install-windows-7-uefi-mode-usb.html

https://iboysoft.com/howto/the-selected-disk-is-not-a-fixed-mbr-disk.html

Diskpart says:  “The disk you specified is not MBR formatted.” when trying to format GPT?

Just Format MBR first… then Format GPT. What a dipshit system.

1258

In other news, having grown tired of repeatedly slamming my fingers in a drawer, I thought I’d do something comparably joyful and have a go at some Linux shit again. What the zark for, I have no idea.

After the PiHole failure, I resolved to get rid off all my Pi kit.

SLIGHT TANGENT

Just adding a load of links here, in case I ever get desperate and/or bored and/or desperately bored:

https://www.reddit.com/r/RetroArch/comments/l158qt/best_performing_retroarch_build_on_a_raspberry_pi/

https://www.reddit.com/r/RetroArch/comments/7jq3s5/confused_where_to_put_psx_bios_ubuntu/

https://www.reddit.com/r/emulation/comments/pvv534/raspberry_pi_4_lakka_emulation_guide/

https://www.lakka.tv/get/linux/rpi/install/first-boot/games/

https://www.cyberciti.biz/faq/how-to-configure-samba-to-use-smbv2-and-disable-smbv1-on-linux-or-unix/

https://www.lakka.tv/doc/Accessing-Lakka-filesystem/

https://forums.libretro.com/t/roms-bios-where-to-place/2573/3

https://www.sevenforums.com/installation-setup/321097-how-install-windows-7-uefi-mode-usb.html (this didn’t seem to work for making a drive that would boot on the WacWini)

https://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/186875-uefi-unified-extensible-firmware-interface-install-windows-7-a.html

https://iboysoft.com/howto/the-selected-disk-is-not-a-fixed-mbr-disk.html

https://www.emu-land.net/en/consoles/psx/emuls/windows

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=rerun+duckstation+wizard

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=raspberry+pi+show+processor

Monday, 4 November 2024

Old Desktop #1: unRAIDing HDDs, reinstalling Windows 10, EE rant

1044
The backup saga continues. Perhaps I’m suffering from a virtual form of my IRL hoarding: data hoarding…

On the old, huge, Fractal-cased PC, it was time for some changes. Like in the HP AIO, I’m un-RAIDing the three drives in there to increase capacity.

First I made sure that any data on there was backed-up to the ‘Definitive’ external drive. I then accidentally deleted not only the stuff I had checked, but a whole copy of my personal generic data. This was a good lesson in why a back-up is necessary: accidentally deleting data has to be one of the most common causes of data loss…

Hoping the gone-data was still on the other PC (the other old desktop), I proceeded to restart and use CTRL-I to unRAID the three 1TB drives. Weirdly, after this, the computer failed to boot, despite the boot drive being an utterly separate 128GB SSD; it would just go into BIOS each time, like there was no boot device. I tried unplugging the three formerly-RAID drives, but no beans. Well, looks like we’re reinstalling Windows today too…

Actually, booting to BIOS was useful because it showed me that I’d not seated one of the RAM sticks properly.

In other news, this week I’ve tried to do a poor-person’s NAS by simply attaching a USB drive to the USB port on the internet router. It didn’t work, and it seems EE have disabled that functionality on their new “Smart” Hub “Plus”.

The next day I tried to set up Pi-Hole. This also didn’t work, again because EE have removed features from the hub, this time the DNS settings.

On top of that, they sent me an email saying the broadband bill was overdue; where the zark did my previous Direct Debit disappear to? Why didn’t they mention it wouldn’t carry over?

And don’t get me started on the incompetence demonstrated by the “engineer” who came over to install the fibre connection…

Unimpressed with EE at the moment.

UPDATE October 2025: just a theory after rereading these posts, but could the reason for the old desktop not booting be that I had more than one harddrive (crucially: three of them RAIDed to act as one drive) connected when installing Windows? This might have done that weird thing where the installation puts a random Windows partition on a drive other than the ‘main’ one (the one you’re intending to install on). Then, when I removed the RAID from the drives, that “important” partition went up the wazhoo, taking the ability to boot with it. Just a theory, that I have no evidence for, but you never know

Tuesday, 8 October 2024

HP AIO: unRAIDing HDDs, sound-over-DisplayPort issues

1820
As part of the mahoosive project that is organising & rationalising all the data I've hoarded over the years, I have decided to un-RAID the two 465gb drives in the HP AIO. I made them into a single RAID drive for redundancy and perceived safety of data, but have since learnt that this is not the best way to back-up data. Sure, it's better than no back-up, but if the computer catches fire, all the data is still gone.

I'm going to try to be more disciplined with external hardrives, make a PiNAS (with absolutely no RAIDing; see above…) and have it backed-up off-site too.

So, after reïnstalling Windows 10 (it's deffo Pro this time) and backing up the data from the RAID, I restarted and pressed CTRL-I to enter the RAID utility, which is extremely simple to use. It warned about losing all data from the drives, which was fine, and I went ahead and separated them.

Back in windows, the drive was still showing up, and still had all the data on! Weird. Though one of the drives was ‘offline’. I deleted the volume from the online drive, and when I turned the second drive ‘online’ it appeared in File Mangler with all the data on! Good to know the system works.

Anyway, with their volumes deleted, I'm having a go at making a Stripped Volume. This will re-join the drives together, but in an utterly different way: they'll have their capacity added together to make one larger volume which will appear to Windows as a single drive. This’ll simplify storage. Hope it works!

The computer gave me some sound shit after the new windows went in, which I remember it doing before. I've got it connected to another monitor via DisplayPort, and then the speaker is connected to the jack in that monitor. Trouble is, sound drops for a fraction of second every so often, which is quite annoying. Someone on Reddit suggested increasing the sound quality, which sounded like bollocks, and didn't work. I went to Updates and clicked Optional Updates to update the drivers for a couple of likely-looking devices (Dell monitor & AMD audio). Seems ok for now, but we'll see.


Monday, 7 October 2024

First time kicking Microsoft Copilot out of my system & life... and reinstalling Windows 10

1252
The computer I have with the oldest installation of windows (i.e. the one it's been the longest since I've reïnstalled Windows on) is the HP AIO. It's a good machine, with some quirks, as all computers have, especially as they age.

This one, like all Windows machines, has suddenly decided it needs Microsoft's copilot on it, which is a waste of everyone's time, so I looked up how to disable copilot. It's fairly straightforward in Group policy editor, so I attempted to run gpedit.msc on the computer… and…

It's not on there. WTF?

This is weird, so I check what version of windows I've got: Windows 10 HOME??? How the fuck is it the Home edition? Surely, surely, Shirley I installed Pro on there, all those years ago. Right…?

Anyway, I tried a Reddit\majorgeeks workaround for getting gpedit to work on Home, but (predictably for me), it didn't work, so I guess it's about time to reïnstall Windows.

Just in case it all goes to shit and the Pro license key doesn't work any more, I thought I should image the current setup using Macrium Reflect.

At first I tried doing it onto a 500gb disk, but it turns out the 500gb system SSD is bigger than the 500gb HDD I'm trying to clone it to.

Next, tried a 1tb HDD: still fails; same weird error.

Tried the same 1tb HDD but used fdisk and diskpart to completely get rid of all partitions before commencing the clone: still failed. Macrium is dog shit.

I'll just image it for now and hope for the best.

A few hours later…

Shitting Macrium couldn't even manage that simple task; why do persist in using it…?

A little googling later led me to a Reddit post suggesting DiskGenius. Downloaded it, ran it, cloned the system disk to a slightly smaller HDD and it worked fine (despite spitting out an error at the end about the boot not working). Tried booting from it and I think it worked, but because it was an identical clone of the SSD, I'm not sure where I was running windows from. I'll try it again later.

Anyway, it was time to reïnstall Windows, so I booted from the old multiboot USB and went down the familiar road, until…

I did the usual thing of deleting all the partitions on the target disk, but when I clicked next to begin the installation, it gave me error 0x80300024. Never seen that before…

A little googling later led me to a golden Reddit post:

https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/156rrmo/fix_for_0x80300024_for_windows_install_with/

I simply went into the BIOS and moved the target drive to be first in the boot order, booted back up with the USB and tried again. It worked! Amazing.

Monday, 12 August 2024

Dell laptop troubleshooting: success!

0954
The Dell laptop has been having a problem when it gets moved… which is definitely an issue for a laptop.

It will randomly BSOD and restart when moved; but is stable when, well, stable. It seems to be a flexing issue.

Looking online, the only problem I found which comes close is someone saying the battery has bulged on some of this model and cracked the motherboard, which sounds plausible.

Time to open it up.

Battery looks fine and there's no obvious damage, although a teeny crack on the motherboard would be impossible to spot.

There IS an issue though: the m.2 SSD has a bolt holding it down, but the screw head wasn't actually over the m.2 board, meaning the board was floating. Seems to me that this would certainly cause an issue when the laptop is moved. I reïnstalled the boot with a washer under the head to hold the board down properly.

…but then:

Trying to boot the laptop gave me some blinking LED error code to do with memory. I tried reseating the RAM: same; tried it in the other RAM slot: slightly different error code.

I'd reseated the RAM when poking around inside initially and wondered if I'd static-killed it…

Spent some time trying to find the anti-static wrist strap which I know I have somewhere.

With that on and connected to an earth pin, I tried the RAM in the new Trigkey mini PC (only other machine that takes DDR4) and it worked fine, which was a relief, but meant something was wrong with the laptop.

It had been giving me a low battery warning, so I tried unplugging the battery and booting from mains power: worked fine. Phew!

Battery seems to be charging ok.

Waited while it did some Windows updating, then tried picked it up by all the corners and flexing it a bit: the kinda stuff that would make it BSOD before…

Seems ok! Hopefully the problem was just a loose hard drive.

It still gets really hot and the fan blows like jet a engine, but I'll live with that! ...even if it means I can't ever actually use it on my lap unless I want to melt my shorts onto my legs.


Monday, 3 June 2024

Lenovo "IBM" T60

1159

Having another look at the Lenovo T60 this morning. I found a load of drivers for it on a harddrive somewhere, which included, amusingly, one for the fingerprint reader. And it works! Logging into an IBM using my finger takes me back to my very first X60s laptop…

Anyway, many driver-installs later, and nothing really useful had been accomplished: the volume keys still didn’t work, the two-finger scroll on the trackpad didn’t work, and still no internet.

Then it occurred to me that I was chasing the wrong goal: I just need a Windows & machine to run MemoryMap; bells ‘n’ whistles are nice to have, but not necessary.

So let’s try that…

Sunday, 2 June 2024

Mac Mini 'hacking', First time on Windows 11 ...and also reinstalling Windows 7

 

2044

Tried the whole shebang on Minux (Mac Mini running Linux Lite) and it worked, so it seems the problem is with the RPi.

Honestly, everything I've ever tried to do with RPis has just failed, and\or has been too long-winded with too many hoops to jump through to be worth it.

On the subject of little computers, today I tried first boot of the Trigkey G4 system, which despite ‘only’ having a Celeron N100 processor is possibly the most powerful PC I've ever had…

Booted up good and went through my first time setting up a fresh Win11 machine; it's much the same as Win10, but you need to do an extra step to setup a local account rather than a Microsoft account:

https://www.tomshardware.com/how-to/install-windows-11-without-microsoft-account


(don't forget to only visit tomshardware with an adblocker; it's an ad-ridden cesspit)

Win11 is quite annoying, even moreso than Win10: taskbar items CAN'T have labels. Fucking idiots. (UPDATE, Jan 2025: this is fixed when updating Win11)

I'm contemplating getting the Win11 image from their website as a backup, and installing Win10 instead.

Or should I bite the bullet like I did moving from 7 to 10…? I mean, I'll HAVE to get used to it one day when Win10 support ends. Perhaps by then though, Win12 will be out and I can ignore Win11 like I did Vista & Win8…?

The computer is lightning fast though, and plays 4K youtube videos with no problems (I think? Not sure my monitor can support 4K. Or that my eyes can even tell the difference…)

Also today I booted up the ol’ T60 to check what processor it had …and it failed to boot. Seems the CMOS battery has died, and taken the system down with it. I bodged in a new battery by heat shrinking the old terminals (prised off the old battery) onto a normal CR2032. Seems to work…?

Still won't boot, and the two HDDs that are labelled as having bootable Win10 installations on them for TeeSixty also don't work.

Tried reimaging the SSD with a Macrium Reflect image of Win7, which seemed to go ok, but had same boot failure.

Tried installing Win10 from USB: success! So TeeSixty isn't dead.

Tried installing Win7 from USB: also success!

…didn't fancy going through installing everything onto a fresh Win7 install (lazy…) so tried MR image restore again, hoping all this had ‘cleared’ the previous issue.

No dice. That setup seems utterly borked, though I don't know why the MR backup also won't work when imaged. Weird.

Time to install Win7. Again.

Initially tried “repairing” from the Win7 USB, but during the process Windows tells me:



“A required CD\DVD drive device driver is missing.”

Why the shit is that required if I'm not using the CD drive to install…? Plonkers.

Anyway, back to a completely fresh install.

During messing with these two computers I was also fiddling with the HP ProBook laptop which is having a weird time with its DVD drive port: it's not recognising devices plugged in there, be it an optical drive or HDD in adaptor caddy. It’s weird because the optical drive gets power (the button opens it, and closing the drive makes it spin up) but it doesn’t appear at all in windows.

Just gonna do without an extra drive; a 500gb SSD should be plenty!

Back to the TeeSixty:

Installed Windows 7:



Always Ultimate. Obvs. (But have you spotted my mistake yet…? I didn't. Obvs.)

Went ok, as it did before, but on Windows updates wouldn't do anything at all.

I thought it might be activation, and sure enough, Windows wasn't activated. I think I'd previously installed it using a pre-cracked ISO, but, tragically, that USB seems to have died…

Anyway, I have a key for Win7 Enterprise, so went back to install Windows AGAIN.

…at that point I noticed that I'd previously installed the x86 version instead of x64, which might explain the update fail (or that could just be the lack of activation).

2235

Holy zark, that was A LOT of hoop-jumping.

Activation wouldn't work with the Enterprise key, so I called the automated service, who sent me a text with a link to a website where you have to input FORTY-EIGHT numbers from your computer and it then spits out ANOTHER forty-eight numbers for your to input into your computer.

Activation worked though!

Update still wouldn't… because there appears to be no internet, which is why the activation failed. Fuck's sake; what fresh horror is this. It's connected to the WiFi, but won't send or receive anything.

I tried using DriverPackSolutions 16 to install missing drivers, and it certainly installed some, but it didn’t help the internet situation.

Tuesday, 28 May 2024

PiNAS: The Patience Wears Thin...

 0751

Checked the RPi4 this morning and the syncing seems to have finished.

Tried a reboot…

…success! It rebooted.

This is progress for sure.

1733

Fuc'k’s'sake.

I definitely got my hopes up too early there. The next steps are the killer steps (in that they kill the RPi) :

Next, make sure that the drive is mounted whenever you boot.

sudo nano /etc/fstab


Add the line:

/dev/md0 /mnt/raid1/ ext4 defaults,noatime 0 1


Quit (CTRL+X, followed by Y), then run the following so the RAID array starts up correctly on boot:

sudo mdadm --detail --scan | sudo tee -a 

/etc/mdadm/mdadm.conf


Reboot and you should have /mnt/raid1 ready to go.

After doing these and rebooting, we’re back to sod all.

Maybe I’ll just use a Windows PC.

Monday, 27 May 2024

PiNAS: The Trials Begin

1300

The record begins today, but the trials began some time ago.


Objective: an always-on NAS/server/filestore for local- & wide-area retrieval of music, video, and possibly other important files.

As this is to be permanently powered-up, power consumption needs to be low; this excludes a ‘big’ PC as their power draw is substantial over time. This is a shame, as they are easy to work on, reliable, easy to add storage to, and, very importantly, familiar to me.

The obvious solution to this dilemma is to use a Raspberry Pi: I have several lying around, and they consume very little power, even with a separate power supply in use for multiple HDDs.

The problem with this potential solution is the unfamiliarity with RPi (and other GNU/Linux) operating systems. In addition, previous experience & attempts at working on & with RPis has left me apprehensive at trying anything with them. They are to hand, however, and the monetary cost of attempting a PiNAS is zero. I have time at my disposal, so, no matter how long it takes, the time cost is irrelevant. (FORESHADOWING)

Let’s cut the first, and long, part of the story short: I googled how to set up RAID on a RPi and turned up this:

 https://magpi.raspberrypi.com/articles/build-a-raspberry-pi-nas 

(stricken-through because it DOES NOT WORK)

I followed the instructions, and at the point where it says: “Reboot and you should have /mnt/raid1 ready to go.” the system simply does not start up and furnishes me with one of the wonderful error messages which Linus is so good at providing.

The first time this happened, my assumption was that I must have made a mistake; there are, afterall, lots of unfamiliar terminal commands to input.

So I tried again: same result.

And again.

(At some point after the first or second failure I probably tried a different USB hub.)

Still not working, and I was perpetually getting the classic low power warning.

It is important to note that at this point I still thought that I was the problem: I must have not followed the instructions closely enough, or I must be underpowering my Pi.

Right, let’s change the setup a bit: I moved the project from a RPi3 to a RPi4 and used a dedicated PSU for the Pi, rather than powering the Pi & three HDDs from a single powered hub.

I set it all up and followed, again, the MagPi instructions.

Same error message at the same point when rebooting.

Probably too late, I finally realised that something must be fundamentally wrong with the instructions, so ditched them.

Like a ZARKING IDIOT, I decided to post on Reddit asking for help. I’d sworn off Reddit a few months ago because it’s full of judgemental and reactionary muppets who read what they want to hear, rather than what is written. So, despite myself, I tried a post:

PiNAS - Has anyone else tried

following the MagPi instructions

for setting one up?

https://magpi.raspberrypi.com/articles/build-a-raspberry-pi-nas

I have tried (to my shame...) to follow these instructions four (4...) times on a RPi3

and RPi4 and after repeatedly blaming myself for not following the instructions

properly, have to conclude that there is something fundamentally wrong with

the procedure as written.

The error text is:

(please ignore me unplugging HDDs at the end there)

"You are in emergency mode. After logging in, type "journalctl -xb" to view system logs,

"systemctl reboot" to reboot, "system ctl default" or "exit" to boot into default mode.

"Cannot open access to console, the root account is locked. See sulogin(8) man page

for more details.

"Press Enter to continue."

[ENTER]

"Reloading system manager configuration

"Starting default.target"

(Error repeats, with no chance of logging in. Restarting the system gives the same result,

and the only way to fix this seems to be to reflash the SD card.)

My attempts on the RPi3 used a single powered hub to supply the Pi and three HDDs,

so I thought undervoltage might be the issue at first; however, on the RPi4 I

used two separate PSUs: one for the RPi (5V 3A) and a powered USB hub for the

three HDDs, so I'm pretty sure power isn't the problem in that case.

I've often encountered issues when following Linux instructions that are not recent:

the commands/repositories/links (sorry, I don't know all the terminology) seem to go

out-of-date sometimes. Is this the case here?

Has anyone else tried following these instructions? Had any luck...?

Thanks for reading.

The first reply (so far) says it’s undervoltage. Yeah, thanks for nothing,
you shite-for-brains.
Anyway, next I had a go at this:

https://www.makeuseof.com/how-to-set-up-raid-1-on-the-raspberry-pi/


which is, amusingly, titled: “How to Set up RAID-1 on the Raspberry Pi, the Easy Way”

This also failed due to some parts of the instructions being out of date (files/repositories/whatever no longer being in the places referred to in the instructions).

PLOT TWIST

 Found this:

https://www.jeffgeerling.com/blog/2020/building-fastest-raspberry-pi-nas-sata-raid 

Jeff Geerling is someone I enjoy watching on youtube so I was ready to give his instructions the time of day.…even though his instructions are EXACTLY the same as the ‘failed’ MagPi instructions.

Ok, I thought, why not just follow it through AGAIN and watch it fail. Sod it; not doing anything better with my life.

I followed his words, but at the point where MagPi said to reboot, Jeff suggested a couple of commands to “watch the progress and status of your RAID array while it is being initialized”: 



See what it says?? Status: resyncing!! 2% complete!

Now, I don’t know for sure yet, because this resyncing business looks like it’s gonna take a long time, but surely rebooting the Pi during resyncing can’t be good for it… Neither set of instructions mentions this, but…

I’m going to leave it on now to finish resyncing and then try a reboot. Hasta mañana.

Monday, 8 January 2024

Observations

 

out theretakeaway
.ukwoodland cut foxglove
Toy currynumber too
worldynextdoor
down the yazooee riverkiddy2
ebuyerwoodland cut cleat
p me2 + hall code


jawgsingle digit crib
GMShouse number